Exploring Nakshi Kantha with Sobia Ameen
Photo by Nasir Hossain
Nakshi kantha is a type of embroidered quilt that has been an art form for centuries in Bengal, now Bangladesh. The materials used to create nakshi kantha consist of thread and old, used fabric, in most cases garments worn and washed thoroughly. Nakshi Kanthas are made all around Bangladesh but Mymensingh, Rajshahi, Faridpur and Jessore are the most famous for this craft. “Nakshi Kantha” got its name from the colourful patterns and designs that were embordered. “Nakshi” derives from the Bengali word “naksha” which refers to artistic patterns, and “kantha” translating to quilt. The early kanthas consisted of white backgrounds with red, blue & black embroidery accents, later yellow, green, pink and other colours were integrated into the designs. The “kantha stitch” is referred to the running stitch that is mainly used for this purpose. Traditionally, kantha’s were produced to use for the family. After the revival of the nakshi kantha, it is commercially produced and found commonly on various products at local stores.
Photo by Nasir Hossain
Kanthas were traditionally made using old sarees, lungis and dhotis as the background. It was not looked at as a profession but an art form that women in almost every household were experts at. Rural women would take months or even years to finish a kantha as it was an activity that would be worked on during leisure time or on idle days of the rainy season. A minimum of five to seven sarees were needed to make a standard size kantha. Today the old fabric is replaced with new cloth. Traditionally the thread was also collected from old sarees but today that is rarely the case, it has also been replaced with the new. Traditionally, when a kantha is being made, the sarees are joined together to attain the required size before layers are spread out on the ground. The fabric is then smoothed, no folds or ceases are left in between. The cloth is kept flat on the ground with weights on the edges during the process of stitching.
Designs and motifs were not drawn on the cloth initially, it was first outlined with needle and thread, then followed by focal points before motifs were filled in. Initially, the predominant central motif was made in the centre, followed by corner designs and other details. Wooden blocks were used to print outlines for kanthas such as carpet, lik & sujni, etc. Today, blocks are replaced by patterns drawn with tracing papers.
Photo by Nasir Hossain
There are varieties of Nakshi Kanthas; Running Stitch, Lohori Kantha, Lik or Anarasi, Cross Stitch or Carpet and Sujni Kantha. The most common and native is the Running Stitch. The running stitch are subdivided into Nakshi (Figured) and Par Tola (Patterned). Nakshi (Figured) Kanthas are further divided into motif or scenic kanthas. Lohori Kantha got its name from the Persian word ‘lehr’, which means wave. This type of kantha is particularly popular in Rajshahi. These kanthas are further divided into Shoja (Straight or Simple), Kautar Khupi (Pigeon Coop or Triangle), Borfi or diamond (Charchala, Atchala or Barachala). The Lik or Anarasi (Pineapple) type of kantha is found in the Chapainawabganj and Jessore areas. The variations are Lik Tan, Lik Tile, Lik Jhumka, and Lik Lohori. Cross stitch or carpet was introduced by the English during the British Rule in India. The stitch employed in these kanthas are the cross stitch. Sujni kantha is found only in Rajshahi area, the prevalent motifs used are the undulating floral and vine motifs.
Photo by Nasir Hossain
A variety of motifs and borders used in Nakshi Kantha are deeply influenced by religious beliefs and culture. Even though no specific strict symmetry is followed, a finely embroidered nakshi kantha will always have a focal point. Most kanthas will have a lotus as the focal point, and around the lotus there are often undulating vines or floral motifs, or a shari border motif. The motifs may include images of flower and leaves, birds and fish, animals, kitchen forms even toilet articles. While most kanthas have some initial pattern, no two nakshi kantas are the same. While traditional motifs are repeated, the individual touch is used in the variety of stitches, colours and shapes. The notable motifs found in nakshi kantha are; Lotus, Solar, Moon, Wheel, Swastika, Tree of Life & Kalka. Most nakshi kanthas have some kind of border, either a sari border is stitched on or a border pattern is embroidered around the kantha. The common border found in kanthas are as follows; Paddy Stalk or Date Branch (Dhaner Shish or Khejur Chari), Scorpion (Biche), Wavy or Bent (Beki), Diamond (Barfi), Eye (Chok), Amulet (Taabiz), Necklace (Mala), Ladder (Moi), Fish (Maach), anchor (Grafi) & the Pen Border (Kalam).
Photo by Nasir Hossain
Nakshi Kanthas have been a part of my life for as long as I can remember, I still think it is one of the most comfortable pieces of fabrics to wrap around the body. Whether it is a quilt or a saree, nakshi kanthas were a part of my firsts. Growing up in a hot and humid country, I remember always going to bed with my favourite nakshi kantha blanket, it was soft and airy enough to comfort me throughout the night without making me feel too hot. Over the years they were replaced or patched. My nanny who is now our cook is from Jessore, it is common to be an expert in making Nakshi Kanthas there. She usually fixes any of my nakshi kanthas that need mending and has made me a baby blanket with bright fluorescent threads, it is the one I am holding in most of the images. My first saree was also a nakshi kantha but it was on silk and naturally dyed, it is still one of my favourite sarees because of the intricate body of work. When I was younger, I would see my nanny take my mom’s discarded sarees, usually worn out uniform sarees and turned them into quilts. While nakshi kantha is found commercially and used almost every way possible, it is still a exquisite art form that needs to be appreciated more.
Photo by Nasir Hossain